The acne itself wasn’t fun, but what was left in its wake was even worse. Once the hormonal spots that plagued me as a teenager were finally gone, the aftermath included scarring and uneven texture – both of which continue to haunt me years later. While I feel as though I’ve already tried it all in the pursuit of smooth texture, with a new wave of formulations dedicated to “resurfacing” the skin – and anecdotal reports from skin experts suggesting that uneven texture is an increasingly common complaint – I’m sharing what I’ve learnt about how to tackle it.
In the first instance, I found it useful to understand the issues that cause uneven texture in the first place. “Those with skin conditions such as rosacea, psoriasis or seborrheic dermatitis can experience some areas of thickness and others of thinness in the top layer of the skin,” explains consultant dermatologist Dr Emma Craythorne. “This kind of texture is often accompanied by a slightly dull look. With conditions such as acne, inflammation around a spot-occupied follicle can destroy the area around it, including the collagen, which is why you get a little dip or divot.”
There are different types of acne scars – some look like large pores, others more like pinpricks – but treating it is all about harnessing a combination of modalities. At its worst, my skin (predominantly on my forehead and down my temples) bore a combination of blemishes and craters that, at least in my mind’s eye, appeared almost deep enough to get lost in, and it did me no good emotionally – I felt so self-conscious.
After a few years of suffering in silence – and many Google searches to find out how I could resurface my skin – I decided I needed laser treatment. It seemed like the only way I could take a metaphorical eraser to my pitted skin. My research led me to the Chelsea clinic of one Debbie Thomas, a facialist known for her laser expertise. Debbie and her team saw me monthly over the course of a year, utilising a number of different lasers – including occasional Fraxel (not for the faint-hearted), and Fotona SP Dynamis (which can be amped up or dialled down, depending on the severity of scars) – to help reduce acne-causing bacteria and excess oil, boost collagen production (plumping the skin surface helps to even out the undulations in the skin), and reduce uneven skin tone and redness. She also used acid peels and the Hydrafacial device, which clears oil and dead cells from pores, saturates skin with all-important hydration, and ultimately leaves it glowing.
In-clinic treatment for uneven texture is predominantly focused around lasers. “We use different types: either a non-ablative fractional laser, which heats the skin to induce a collagen response and improve texture, or ablative lasers – such as the carbon dioxide laser – which is used for more severe acne scarring,” says Dr Craythorne. “Additional treatments such as radiofrequency microneedling, or microneedling alone, pull the skin tighter, so you don’t see the dips as much, plus they also boost collagen.” In more severe cases, practitioners may combine any of these techniques with hyaluronic acid fillers, or even fat transfer.
Skinceuticals Cell Cycle Catalyst, £120.
£120
Skinceuticals
L'Oréal Paris Bright Reveal Dark Spot Exfoliant Peel
£15.99
Boots
I had reached a point of desperation, so I jumped in at the deep end with lasers, but in retrospect I should have started with my home skincare routine. Addressing texture effectively is all about treating different layers of the skin: while laser targets the deeper layers, your skincare routine can improve the uppermost one. Cleansing the skin properly helps to remove any dead cells that can build up and contribute to an uneven (and lacklustre) appearance, and using a barrier-boosting moisturiser ensures the skin is robust and hydrated – dry skin never looks even.
A broad-spectrum SPF is also essential to defend against UVA and UVB – the former penetrates deep into the skin and destroys the collagen that holds the skin together, so fending it off is essential to achieve a smooth appearance. And lastly, using prescribed tretinoin (which you can get online via Dr Craythorne’s dermatology service, Klira) over a period of time can also improve skin texture.
At-home exfoliation products promise to help, too. Thomas recommends “regular but controlled exfoliation”, meaning it’s key not to overdo it. New products I’m excited about include SkinCeuticals Cell Cycle Catalyst – which accelerates skin cell renewal thanks to a formula of 7.7 per cent multi-acid complex and 1 per cent of the skin re-energising active taurine – and L’Oréal Paris Bright Reveal Dark Spot Exfoliant Peel, which tackles dark spots and post-acne marks as well as texture.
For a more incremental exfoliation, Rhode’s balmy new Pineapple Refresh Cleanser utilises fruit enzymes, which nibble away at only the skin cells that need lifting, making it super gentle, while Fresh Lotus’s AHA Gentle Resurfacing Serum and Noble Panacea’s Overnight Chronobiology Peel are both designed to be used at night.
When it comes to texture, it’s a marathon not a sprint – the skin needs time to regenerate itself, so patience is essential. Yes, it can feel fruitless at times, but nurturing your skin pays dividends in the end and you will appreciate the eventual glow all the more. They say that bumpy roads lead to beautiful places… I couldn’t agree more.
Rhode Pineapple Refresh Cleanser
£28
RHODE
Fresh Lotus AHA Gentle Resurfacing Serum
£60
Cult Beauty
Noble Panacea Chronobiology Sleep Mask
£272
Harrods
